A half hour's train ride south of Madrid lies Toledo,
Spain's former capital city with 2500 years of Roman,
Visigoth, Jewish, Moorish and Christian history. Perched
on a circular hill, the city is dominated by the Alcazar
fortress and the Cathedral.
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Expansive views can be seen from several points, such as during
the long climb from the train station in the valley to the
central Plaza Zocodover. |
Below the cathedral's bell tower lies the Plaza Ayuntamiento,
with the city hall, the tourist office and a modern art
installation portraying a metallic sewage ditch.
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The Puerta de Bisagra Negra, built in 1559, was Toledo's main
entrance through the city walls.
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Outside the Alcazar is a statue of a woman offering a sword to
heaven, commemorating the victims of the siege of the Alcazar by
Republican troops during the Spanish Civil War.
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Spain's first great artist, El Greco, was a Greek living in
Toledo. 2014 was the 400th anniversary of El Greco's death. The
Museo El Greco and the Santa Cruz Museum featured interpretive
displays about his influence on later artists. |
The 13th Century Toledo Cathedral is vast and impressive, with 5
naves, 4 organs, a gilded altarpiece and carved walnut choir
chamber. Like many cathedrals in Spain it has been built atop a
prior mosque.
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The Cathedral's sacristry features 18 El Grecos and artwork by
Goya, Titian, Rubens and Caravaggio.
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Small chapels around the cloister are richly decorated.
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Toledo is said to have Spain's most confusing medieval street
plan. We got pleasantly lost in our wandering through narrow
streets and blind alleys past homes with iron grillwork.
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Tiny twisted lanes lead to the Jewish Quarter where small
sinagogas portray the complicated history of Jewish and Moorish
settlement in Spain. |
Toledo is known for its style of pottery, for its hand-crafted
swords and for its damascene inlay work. |
Artisans produce goods related to the nearby La Mancha setting
of Cervantes' Don Quixote. |
Hidden artistic details are everywhere, such as this
bust of El Greco in a quiet garden.
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